Framed Pair of Early 19th Century Qing Dynasty Silk Embroidery Rank Badge With Paradise Flycatcher

Framed Pair of Early 19th Century Qing Dynasty Silk Embroidery Rank Badge With Paradise Flycatcher

This vividly-colored pair of embroidery badges depicts a paradise flycatcher on a black background. The bird is shown with its wings outstretched, hovering above the ocean waves perched on a rock. It faces the sun, which symbolizes the Emperor and serves as a focal point for the bird to look up to and revere. Stylized bats (symbols of good fortune) flutter under the Ruyi-headed clouds among peach blossoms, lotus flowers, and peonies.

The Chinese tradition of wearing rank badges (buzi), also known as Mandarin squares, to demonstrate civil, military or imperial rank began in 1391 during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and continued throughout the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).

These insignia were sewn onto or woven into the wearer’s garments to indicate their rank. Attached to the front and back of a ceremonial robe, rank badges were woven in pairs with identical imagery. One remained in one piece; the other was divided vertically up the center to attach to the front of a robe with a center opening. Very rare to find a complete set of two badges without a slit up the middle on one.

A badge featuring a bird identified the wearer as a civil official. To attain such a position required years of intense study, so birds may have been selected because of their literary associations. Each rank was represented by a different species, and while there were slight variations over time, by the Qing Dynasty the order from highest to lowest was: (1) crane, (2) golden pheasant, (3) peacock, (4) wild goose, (5) silver pheasant, (6) egret, (7) mandarin duck, (8) quail and (9) paradise flycatcher.

This badge, made for a civil official of the ninth rank, features a paradise flycatcher, which can be recognized by its distinctive tail feathers. Unlike the rest of the badge, which is embroidered in a satin stitch, the bird itself is rendered in a diamond stitch, giving it a sense of three-dimensionality.
The paradise flycatcher denotes longevity and good fortune. Easily identified by the well-known Dot on each of the two tail feathers, this bird is colorfully embroidered, often in shades of orange. The heads of this depicted bird were generally smooth, with a small amount of feathers on the back of the head.

Despite being over 150 years old, the colors are only slightly muted, and the central decor is in good condition. There has been some unraveling of the pattern stitched around the border and there are loose threads visible in the photos.

The badge has been framed in a gilt silver frame with black velvet backing with glass to allow amazing clarity for viewing.

Please note the lower-rank badges are harder to find
There is a greater supply of badges for higher-ranking civil officials than for lower-ranking ones. It is estimated that nearly half of the bureaucrats who had completed the grueling examinations advanced to the first rank, and with these promotions came wealth and the possibility of ordering several sets of luxury attire. Those of lower standing — secretaries from the eighth rank or prison wardens from the ninth — had fewer chances for advancement and buying a lavish wardrobe. Consequently, low-ranking civil officials were often buried in their best clothes, and their rank badges were lost.

The dimensions given for the framed piece are 15.5″ wide and 18.5″ high x 1.75″ depth; the dimensions of the badge itself are 9.25″ wide and 9.25″ high.